Monofilament
Extruded nylon; the most widely used fishing
line today. Smooth and flexible-an excellent choice for most types
of fishing. Mono does absorb 5-10 of its own weight in water, and
will stretch up to 25 (on average) when wet, making it less
effective for extra- deep water or when longline trolling due to
loss of sensitivity and hook setting power. Yet it's ideal for
leaders, because its stretchyness helps soften the impact of a
savage strike, helping to bury the hooks.
Space-age synthetic fibers with names such as
Kevlar, Dyneema and Tectan. These advanced lines offer an
extremely high strength-to-diameter ratio (often several times the
strength of mono), with little or no stretch. This translates to
superior sensitivity, with high abrasion resistance and less water
resistance-great for deep water jigging or longline trolling (add
a mono leader to prevent the hooks from tearing out on the
strike), Take care when tying knots, as the slick finishes can
cause slippage.
An advancement on mono, with similar handling characteristics.
Fluorocarbon has about the same refractive index as water, which
makes it nearly invisible when wet-great for gin-clear water or
finesse fishing. Because it's denser than mono, with a smooth hard
finish, it's less flexible-but much stronger, with low stretch and
high sensitivity. Fluorocarbon is used mostly for leaders,
although some anglers report good results when used as a main line
on baitcasters.
Some lines are engineered for specific situations. There are
special synthetic braids for ice fishing, ultra-flexible
monofilaments for cold water, traditional nylon braids for
trotlines, and color-coded leadcore (a weighted braid) for
deep-water trolling.
The manufacturer's strength rating for the line, based on
breakpoint testing under specific loads. Anglers select the
correct line weight by considering both the size of their quarry
(use lighter weights for small fish) and the conditions they'll
face (use heavier weights for fish tight to cover or in difficult
terrain).
For maximum flexibility and sensitivi ty, with the least amount
of water resistance, use the lowest diameter line you can get away
with and still have the power needed to land a big fish. Braided
lines generally have the highest strength-to-diameter ratios.
In clear, cold water, going "low-vis" may be the only way to
score. Such tough conditions call for the use of fluorocarbon,
which is nearly invisible in water, a "camouflaged" monofilament,
or a neutrally-colored mono or braid of the thinnest possible
diameter. At the other end of the spectrum are the high-vis and
fluorescent lines, which show up brightly above the surface-in
direct sunlight or under a blacklight-to help you manage your line
and detect subtle strikes with ease. Great for worm and grub
fishing, live-bait presentations or Carolina rigging.
The less stretch in your line, the greater its sensitivity. Mono
is relatively stretchy, braid is virtually stretch- free, and
fluorocarbon lies somewhere in the middle. For maximum "feel"
(finesse presentations, live-bait rigging), use braid or
fluorocarbon; when feel is less important than ease of handling
(casting, trolling), use monofilament.
Some lines are relatively stiff, while others are soft and limp.
Generally, softer lines work best in spinning reels, because the
line enters and exits the reel spool at a 90' angle to the
direction of flow and must be flexible enough to make the turn
without twisting. Harder, stiffer lines work fine in baitcasters,
because the line flows directly in and out of the reel.
It's important to change your line periodically. Sunlight,
long-term dry storage and fishing wear-and-tear will eventually
degrade any line's strength and handling. Most reels hold hundreds
of feet of fishing line, so an automatic line stripper is a must
for the arm-weary angler. These inexpensive, battery-operated
time-savers make quick work of a tedious chore by emptying your
reel spool in seconds-very handy!
Once you've owned one of these devices, you'll never go back to
spooling your line by hand. Though styles range from the simple to
the complex (with pricing to match), they're all designed to make
respooling easier. All release line under correct tension, so that
the line winds smoothly and evenly onto the reel spool with a
minimum of twisting, to help ensure trouble-free performance on
the water.
Every angler should keep a pair of "nail clippers" handy at all
times; they're indispensable for cutting monofilament or
fluorocarbon lines cleanly. (Note: Clippers made for fishing use
are generally stronger and sharper than the cosmetic variety.)
Anglers using braided lines or superlines should carry a pair of
"braid blades," special scissors with super-sharp blades designed
specifically for handling superlines. Use wire cutters to snip
leadcore or wire trolling lines and leader material. In addition
to these specialized cutters, we carry an assortment of lanyards
and clips to help keep them close at hand.
Lighter lines are considered more sporting, less visible to the
fish, easier to handle and less affected by wind and current drag.
Heavier lines are less stretchy, and deliver more hooksetting and
fish-fighting power. Select your line based on the species and
technique you'll be using. For instance, if you'll be flipping
heavy cover in a dingy lake, you might opt for 20-lb. or heavier
line-but for backtrolling a live bait rig in 40' of water, 6-lb.
might be your best choice.
Become familiar with several knots and know which is best in a
given situation. Popular choices for tying terminal tackle include
the Improved Clinch Knot (for mono and fluorocarbon), and the
Palomar (for braids). Many anglers use the Uni-Knot for snelling
hooks and for joining two lines together. All are relatively easy
to tie and have high break strength. Note: Wetting a knot before
cinching it down will usually make it stronger- especially with
fluorocarbon.
Nicks and abrasions can cost you a trophy. Get into the habit of
checking your line for wear and tear, and snip- and-retie before
little problems become big ones. Simply pull the line between
thumb and forefinger to feel for damage in the first 18"-24" above
the bait. Do this after every few casts, and you'll seldom have to
worry about the one that got away.
If you're wondering about it, then it's probably time. Exposure to
UV rays (from sunlight), extreme temperature, long-term storage,
twisting or excessive stress will weaken virtually any line.
Change line anytime these factors come into play, or when you
notice signs of deterioration (fraying, stiffening, etc.).
Depending on how often you fish, you may change your line 6 or 7
times per season (if you fish mono), 2 or 3 times a year
(fluorocarbon), or perhaps just once a season (superlines).
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